Surfing is a solitary sport. But I can tell you that some of the most amazing things I’ve done surfing have come from being a part of a tribe.
🌅 Dawn patrol
First surf of the day, typically done early in the morning before the sun rises. Surfers who participate in dawn patrol are often seen as dedicated and hard-core, as they are willing to get up early and brave the often-chilly conditions.
💪 Sitting inside
Position surfers take when they are waiting for a wave in the impact zone, which is the area closest to the breaking part of the wave. By sitting inside, surfers are positioned to catch the wave at the earliest and fastest point, allowing them to maximize their speed and potential for performing tricks or maneuvering the board. However, sitting inside also means that surfers are in a potentially dangerous area, as they are closer to the breaking part of the wave and at greater risk of being hit by the wave or other surfers.
Waves that have a steep and inconsistent shape, often breaking in an irregular and unpredictable manner. These types of waves are typically more challenging for surfers, as they can be difficult to read and may break suddenly and unexpectedly. Surfers often describe peaky waves as "fast and hollow".
A type of wave that breaks in both directions, forming an A-shape. This type of wave is characterized by a central peak that splits and breaks in opposite directions, creating two separate and distinct faces for surfers to ride. A-frame waves are typically found in reef or point break setups, where the wave direction and shape are determined by the geography of the coastline. The term "A-frame" is often used to describe the overall appearance of the wave, with surfers riding both the left and right sides of the peak.
👉 Point break
Type of surf break that is caused by a wave breaking in a direction that is perpendicular to a point or headland. This type of break is typically characterized by long, consistent waves that break in a predictable pattern and offer ideal conditions for surfing.
🏖️ Beach break
Type of surf spot where the waves break over a sandy bottom close to the shore. These spots are usually found on sandy beaches.
🪨 Reef break
Type of surf break that forms when waves break over a coral reef or rocky seabed. It is typically considered a more challenging and potentially dangerous type of surf break compared to beach breaks or point breaks, as the sharp reef can cause injury to surfers.
A crumbly wave often has a weak, inconsistent lip, causing it to break apart as it approaches the shore.
The condition of the ocean's surface when it is calm and smooth, resembling the surface of a mirror or glass. This creates ideal conditions for surfing with long, clean, and uncreaked waves.
A very large, powerful waves that are ideal for experienced surfers. These waves are often dangerous and challenging to ride due to their size, speed and sometimes come out out of nowhere.
A crack or damage on the surfboard.
☄️ Full send
A phrase used to describe a committed, all-out effort to ride a wave with maximum speed, power, and style. It means to go for it without hesitation and with full confidence, regardless of the potential risks or consequences. The term is used to encourage surfers to push their limits and challenge themselves.
🦾 Epic paddle
Describe a strenuous and intense effort to paddle towards the line-up. This term is often used to describe a particularly challenging or grueling paddle, such as one against strong currents or heavy waves.
🎉 Party wave
Situation where a group of surfers ride the same wave together, sharing the same line, often exchanging positions and taking turns riding the wave. The objective is to have fun and share the wave with friends.
🏝️ Beach shrinking
Phenomenon of a beach losing sand and becoming smaller over time, resulting in a shorter distance from the water's edge to the shoreline. This can cause difficulties for surfers, as the shallower water may create obstacles for them and the reduced beach area can limit their room for maneuvering.
Waves that are higher than the head of a standing surfer, typically over six feet or two meters. These waves can present a significant challenge to surfers, requiring advanced skills and equipment to safely surf.